Rome never really goes out of fashion, but in recent months the Eternal City has once again dominated the global stage. With the Vatican firmly back in the spotlight, the city is buzzing with renewed energy. Yet those craving a more intimate, sensory-rich Italian experience will find true luxury beyond the city walls — in the rolling hills and ancient forests of Umbria, where time slows, nature heals and authenticity reigns.
Text: Anja Van Der Borght
Padel matches played against a backdrop of undulating hills, centuries-old olive groves and dense Umbrian forests… A hands-on workshop with a master beekeeper, revealing the crucial role of bees in humanity’s survival and teaching you how to recognise a queen bee… At the aristocratic estate of Relais & Châteaux Borgo dei Conti Resort, situated in the Umbrian countryside of central Italy, in the province of Perugia, nature and deep relaxation take centre stage. The resort is currently developing a bio-energetic park designed to reconnect guests with the rhythms of the natural world.
“Italian biologist Marco Nieri studies trees with exceptional magnetic fields that have a beneficial effect on the human body,” explains Antonello Buono, General Manager of the resort. “On our estate, we have identified 35 such trees — including oaks, beeches and olive trees — and are now creating a map that pinpoints their exact locations. Benches will be placed nearby, allowing guests to read, meditate or simply sit in silence while benefiting from the trees’ healing magnetic energy. Each tree and location has a different effect: some support digestive health, others positively influence the liver or other organs. It’s not the tree species alone, but the place where it grows that matters. This is not esoteric wellness, but an approach rooted in genuine scientific research.”
Relais & Châteaux Borgo dei Conti sits on the site of a medieval fortress dating back to the 13th century, and the estate retains historical character while being restored into a luxury retreat. Beneath the manicured gardens and sun-drenched terraces lies a lesser-known world, steeped in mystery and history. Guests can explore parts of the estate’s ancient underground tunnels, remnants of the property’s medieval past, once used for storage, protection and discreet passage across the grounds. According to local legend, these subterranean corridors were said to allow the noble Contessa who once resided here to move unseen across the estate. “She would travel by small boat through hidden waterways to reach a secluded pond on the property”, Antonello Buono says. The story adds a layer of romantic intrigue to the experience, inviting guests to step into a world where history, imagination and timeless Italian aristocratic life quietly intertwine.
At Relais & Châteaux Borgo dei Conti Resort, every suite is a refined expression of Umbrian heritage and contemporary comfort, set within beautifully restored historic buildings that overlook olive groves and the rolling Nestore Valley. The estate offers 40 luxury accommodations, including an array of signature suites — from the elegant Grand Suite Colonica and romantic Sunset Suite with views of the countryside, to the Contessa and Conte Suites that showcase striking details and bespoke décor rooted in local tradition. Each space is thoughtfully designed with high-end finishes,natural materials and bespoke furnishings that reflect the region’s artistic legacy, creating an atmosphere that’s both sophisticated and serene.
The accessible accommodation options include the Full Accessible Garden Suite – a spacious, fully accessible suite on the ground floor with unrestricted comfort and luxury, thoughtfully tailored for guests with reduced mobility. And the Full Accessible Junior Suite – a light-filled, fully accessible junior suite with direct garden access. Both elegantly designed to be barrier-free while maintaining the resort’s signature modern luxury and refined interior style. Every element has been carefully considered to offer independence, safety, and comfort—without compromising on style. The result is a suite that feels welcoming and sophisticated, where accessibility is suprising invisible, and modern design takes center stage.
Relais & Châteaux Borgo dei Conti Resort presents two distinct dining venues that celebrate local ingredients, craftsmanship and the region’s rich gastronomic heritage. Cedri Restaurant offers fine-dining in a remarkable architectural space where refined dishes are served amid vaulted ceilings and, when weather permits, on a terrace overlooking the garden. Here, breakfasts and elegant dinners showcase the best of Umbrian produce, often paired with wines from the surrounding hills. In contrast, Osteria del Borgo serves a more relaxed yet equally thoughtful menu, blending classic Umbrian flavours with inventive touches in a covered al fresco setting above the pool. Complementing both is the Lounge Bar, a stylish space for bespoke cocktails, aperitifs and after-dinner drinks that bridge tradition and modern mixology.
The resort’s culinary philosophy reflects both terroir and technique, guided by a commitment to quality that honours the land. Chef Emanuele Mazzella, whose expertise is informed by a deep respect for local produce and regional cooking, oversees the menus — bringing a subtle Southern Italian sensibility that lightens and elevates the hearty, rustic flavours of Umbria.
Relais & Châteaux Borgo dei Conti Resort is currently developing a bio-energetic park designed to reconnect guests with the rhythms of the natural world.
A Timeless Truffle Tradition
A scenic ninety-minute drive south brings us to Relais & Châteaux Palazzo Seneca, in the historic town of Norcia, close to the epicentre of the devastating 2016 earthquake. While the San Benedetto Cathedral is still undergoing restoration, we head instead to the Abbey of St Benedict on the Mount, perched on the hillside above the town. Here, we attend a deeply moving service accompanied by Latin and Gregorian chants. For their distinctive Birra Nursia, the monks trained with the Trappists of Westvleteren — a quiet nod to monastic craftsmanship across borders.
For their distinctive Birra Nursia, the monks trained with the Trappists of Westvleteren — a quiet nod to monastic craftsmanship across borders.
Relais & Châteaux Palazzo Seneca offers an intimate retreat within a beautifully restored 16th-century palace, comprising 24 individually styled rooms that range from cozy Romantic chambers to spacious suites with classic Italian proportions and elegant materials. Each room blends contemporary comfort with authentic heritage — from wrought-iron beds and marble bathrooms to artisanal decor that evokes the building’s storied past — creating an atmosphere that is both refined and warmly welcoming.
At the heart of the hotel’s gastronomic offering is Vespasia, the Michelin-starred restaurant celebrated for its superb interpretation of Umbrian cuisine. Here, locally sourced products — from Norcia’s famed black truffles and heritage sausages to fresh herbs and legumes — are transformed into elegant, flavour-rich dishes that reflect both tradition and innovation. Complemented by thoughtful wine pairings and the hotel’s immersive culinary experiences (including local tastings and truffle excursions), dining at Palazzo Seneca is not only a highlight of any stay but a deep dive into the gastronomic soul of Umbria
Vespasio restaurant holds a Michelin Star and was also awarded the MICHELIN Green Star for its commitment to sustainability.
Truffle hunting
Our dinner at at Michelin star restaurant Vespasia was unforgettable but the undisputed highlight of our stay, however, is an afternoon truffle hunt with Nicola and his dogs, Otto and Lulu. During the experience, you learn that there are seven different types of truffles, where and how they grow, how to use them in cooking, and gain fascinating insights into local flora, wild boar and other wildlife. The day concludes with an elegant countryside picnic featuring antipasti, regional wines and a hands-on ricotta-making session — rustic luxury at its finest.
Relais & Châteaux Borgo dei Conti Resort, Strada Montepetriolo 26, Castiglione della Valle, 06132 Perugia, Italy, www.borgodeicontiresort.com
Relais & Châteaux Palazzo Seneca, Via Cesare Battisti 10, 06046 Norcia (PG), Umbria, Italy.
www.palazzoseneca.com
