For nearly 25 years, Italian jewelry designer Marco Bicego has been creating collections that stand apart from those of other major names. Recently, the brand that bears his name introduced haute joaillerie. With “Alta,” Italian for “high,” Marco Bicego aims to elevate the brand’s value to an even greater level.
Text by Anja Van Der Borght
For nearly 25 years, Marco Bicego has been crafting distinctive jewelry collections that blend timeless elegance with exceptional craftsmanship. Known for using natural, untreated gemstones and organic forms, his designs stand out in the world of luxury jewelry.
Recently, Marco Bicego introduced “Alta,” the brand’s first haute joaillerie collection. Meaning “high” in Italian, Alta represents a refined evolution for the brand, offering exclusive pieces that celebrate the beauty of natural gemstones while showcasing Italian artistry at its finest. Crafted entirely in-house by master artisans, every detail—down to the engraved lines using the traditional bulino technique—reflects unparalleled attention to quality.
With Alta, Marco Bicego takes his brand to new heights, creating one-of-a-kind jewelry that merges tradition and contemporary sophistication.
The Jaipur, Paradise, and Lunaria collections are the most appreciated on the market. Any idea why?
“For Jaipur and Paradise, we work exclusively with natural, untreated, and non-heated gemstones. These range from diamonds, sapphires, and iolites to topaz, quartz, amethyst, tourmaline, aquamarine, and freshwater pearls. We pay special attention to color, weight, cut, and shape. I love creating special color palettes with surprising gemstone combinations to design timeless, everyday luxury jewelry that is easy to mix and match. For instance, a beautifully colored piece from the Paradise collection can effortlessly complement a Lunaria bracelet. The Lunaria collection, by the way, was inspired by the seeds of the honesty plant. Additionally, we use only 18-karat gold settings to highlight the gemstones.”
The organic shapes, like those of the Lunaria jewelry, are often engraved with fine, parallel lines that are part of your identity. How are these made?
“These fine lines are applied to the jewelry using the bulino technique. ‘Bulino’ is Italian for ‘engraving burin.’ A master goldsmith uses this centuries-old Italian engraving technique in our workshop in Trissino, with a small, pointed engraving tool. The fine longitudinal grooves that we hand-apply to the jewelry not only add texture but also give each piece its unique character. From crafting the gold and engraving to setting the stones, everything is done in-house by more than sixty master craftsmen. Because we oversee every step of the process, we can ensure exceptional quality.”
You recently started producing haute joaillerie?
“Indeed, last year we introduced our very first haute joaillerie collection, called ‘Alta,’ which means ‘high’ in Italian. It’s a natural evolution, a more refined and luxurious interpretation of the beauty of natural gemstones. It’s an opportunity to further enhance the value of our brand, with the goal of enriching the collection with new, exclusive pieces and strengthening the brand’s position in the high jewelry segment. It’s a tribute to Italian artistic expertise and the signature style of the brand.”
Why do you have such a fondness for the Marrakech collection?
“Marrakech holds a special place in my heart. Not only is it one of the most iconic collections of the brand, but it is also the very first design I launched when I started the brand in 2000. My parents crafted gold jewelry in our family workshops in Trissino and sold them as wholesalers, but I wanted to create my own brand. Marrakech was born after I saw a chain in my father’s workshop that had been discarded due to a defect and was waiting to be melted down. The beauty of the extremely fine gold threads delicately coiled by craftsmen into a spiral offers a new perspective on aesthetics: irregular, intentionally imperfect, and uniquely captivating.”
