Born from a lifelong passion for fashion and craftsmanship, Paulini is a rising Belgian couture and ready-to-wear brand that celebrates timeless elegance and the power of femininity. Founded by designer Pauline Mylle, whose vision blends refined silhouettes with bold individuality, Paulini is quickly making its mark in the world of luxury fashion.
In this exclusive interview, Pauline Mylle shares her journey from dreaming of the London College of Fashion as a teenager to launching her own label and designing custom-made gowns for international events. Find out how a single dress sparked a business, why craftsmanship is at the heart of every piece, and how Paulini is building a name for itself in both couture and contemporary womenswear.
Your name is Pauline – why “Paulini”?
PM: “Paulini” is actually a nickname. When I was little, my dad always called me that. After lots of brainstorming, I deliberately chose this name—it adds a personal touch to the brand and has a nice ring to it. Even my suppliers in Italy spontaneously call me Paulini, so it fits perfectly.”
What inspired you to start Paulini?
PM: “It might sound cliché, but I’ve been passionate about fashion since I was a child. When I was fourteen, I told my parents I wanted to study at the London College of Fashion. At the time, they thought it was just a phase. But as I grew older, they realized it was something much deeper. I eventually earned my Master’s degree in Design from the London College of Fashion after four years of study. I then completed an additional year in International Business Management at the Antwerp Management School to build a solid foundation in business. Paulini actually started as a side project. I designed a dress for myself for an event, and it unexpectedly received a lot of attention. Soon after, friends and family began asking me to design dresses for them as well. The demand kept growing, and eventually, I had to choose between my full-time job at IBM and my own label. Coming from an entrepreneurial family, the decision was clear. Running a business is in my blood. Being able to turn my passion into my profession is truly a dream come true.”
How would you describe the style and aesthetic of Paulini? Your website mentions both ready-to-wear and couture. How do these collections differ?
PM: “The Paulini style is constantly evolving, although we always aim to maintain a clear through line. My designs highlight the female silhouette in an elegant and refined way. My goal is to create clothing that makes women feel good.”
PM: “The couture collections mainly include evening gowns, gala dresses, and wedding dresses. Our ready-to-wear line, on the other hand, focuses on stylish everyday clothing—like a coordinated pants-and-top set or a dinner dress that’s elegant but wearable during the day. I also frequently work one-on-one with clients to co-create unique, custom-made dresses. The client’s style and preferences are central to this process.”
Can you walk us through the process from idea to finished garment?
PM: “For couture pieces made for individual clients, the journey begins with a personal consultation. We discuss the event the dress is for, their design preferences, and we select fabrics. Then I create custom sketches. Once a design is approved, we order the fabric and create a calico prototype. During the first fitting, the client gets a sense of the dress’s fit, and we make any necessary changes. After final approval, we create the finished dress. At the second fitting, we make any final adjustments to ensure it fits perfectly. When working on collections, I draw inspiration from my surroundings—people, nature, art, … For the upcoming fashion show, for instance, I’m staying within an automotive theme and drawing from vintage racing apparel and classic car events like Goodwood. I love diving into history books to find images that spark ideas. From there, I source fabrics, make sketches, select the strongest designs, and our atelier creates prototypes and tests techniques. Once everything is in place, we produce the final pieces.”
What are your favorite materials to work with and why?
PM: “We often work with French lace, Italian guipure, jacquard, and silk—fabrics we’re now known for. But really, we can work with almost anything. I’m always on the lookout for something unique. Recently, we used a fabric made from raffia thread—it was very special. I don’t have a fixed favorite; it always depends on the design and the story the fabric needs to tell.”
How does Paulini integrate sustainability into the production process?
PM: “Most of our pieces are made-to-measure using high-quality materials sourced from Italy, France, or the UK. Our garments are designed with craftsmanship and durability in mind, made to last. We primarily work on a made-to-order basis and only purchase fabric once a client places an order, helping us minimize waste. Additionally, we buy leftover fabrics from other designers. At Paulini, we’re very mindful about quantities to avoid overproduction.”
What has been your favorite piece to create and why?
PM: “I especially enjoy designing dresses for special occasions. Recently, we created a gown for someone attending the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este at Lake Como. In the past, we’ve also designed a dress for a prominent figure in the cigar world, worn at the Festival del Habano 25 gala in Cuba. Knowing that my creations are featured at international events gives me tremendous satisfaction.”
What message or feeling do you want to convey through your designs?
PM: “I want to make women happy and help them feel confident in their bodies. Confidence starts with self-love. That’s why we design clothing in all sizes—we want every woman to shine. Elegance and celebrating the female figure are at the heart of what I do.”
What have been your biggest challenges since launching Paulini?
PM: “Building brand awareness and gaining customer trust remains a major challenge. As I often say, ‘You’re only as good as your last dress.’ We have to keep proving ourselves and evolving. Everything happens in our Belgian atelier. I wear many hats—marketer, sales manager, designer, pattern maker… It’s intense. On top of that, entrepreneurship in Belgium, especially in fashion, isn’t easy. Labor costs are high, and I believe there’s little support for young creative entrepreneurs here.”
Do you collaborate with local artisans or ateliers?
PM: “Most of our production is done in-house. I work closely with an experienced seamstress who came from the bridal industry. She’s highly skilled and supports me in the studio. We’re currently both taking a course in Lunéville embroidery at the E&A Fashion Institute to continue honing our couture techniques. For specific components, like belts, I collaborate with a specialist in Tielt who covers belts with our fabrics. I also occasionally work with a local milliner.
Are there any dream collaborations or projects? Can you tell us more about the Porsche collaboration in the works?
PM: “One of my biggest dreams is to one day collaborate with the Belgian royal family—it would be a tremendous honor to dress someone like Queen Mathilde or Princess Elisabeth. For every fashion show, I aim to create a unique experience and setting. Our last show took place in a church in Kortrijk and included dance. The upcoming edition is particularly special—it’s in collaboration with Porsche Centre West Flanders and CMSPro* and will be hosted at their new service center. My father is a passionate car enthusiast, especially when it comes to racing and Porsches. As a child, I was often immersed in the motorsport world because of him. Being able to collaborate with Porsche Centre West Flanders and involve my father in the project makes this a deeply personal and meaningful experience. This show truly feels like a full-circle moment—where passion, family, and design naturally come together. *CMSPro is a company founded by my father that specializes in restoring and maintaining classic cars and vintage race cars.”
Where do you see Paulini in five years?
PM: “I want to expand our ready-to-wear line and develop multiple sales channels, both B2B and B2C. In time, I’d like to partner with European production facilities for this line, as producing everything in-house will become unsustainable. I also want to grow our brand awareness and social media presence. At the same time, I plan to continue investing in our couture division and refine our techniques. The ultimate dream? To become a recognized Belgian couture house that shows in Paris. Whether that happens within five years is uncertain, but it’s certainly the long-term goal.”
