For nearly two years, Maarten van Brakel has been working as a luxury watch expert at the online auction house Catawiki. Before that, he built up experience in various sales roles within the world of prestigious timepieces, including at Omega.
Text: Anja Van Der Borght
His sharp eye, market knowledge, and passion for mechanical refinement make him the ideal person to explain what to look out for when investing in watches. We asked him for his ten most important tips.
1. Invest in emotion first, value second
Of course, you can make a financially successful purchase. But always make sure you truly appreciate a watch’s appeal before thinking about potential value appreciation. The watch market can be unpredictable. If the investment doesn’t pay off, at least you’ll still own a watch you love. If you buy purely for investment purposes, you risk ending up with nothing: no return and no enjoyment.
2. Cartier is still on the rise
Cartier is growing strongly and currently sets many trends within the watch world. The brand has an exceptionally strong identity, one of the strongest, and in terms of brand presence now sits just below Rolex.
3. Smaller watches are back
Looking at the models that are most sought-after by collectors and increasing in value, their diameter is increasingly between 35 and 40 mm, smaller than the average size a few years ago. This shift has also contributed to the popularity of Cartier, known for its elegant, smaller Tank models. Especially younger wearers are increasingly opting for more subtle dimensions.
Cartier Tank à Guichets
4. Thin watches continue to gain ground
Slim models have been highly praised by collectors in recent years. It’s a clear trend that keeps growing every year and may have started with the release of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo in 2014, which shook up the watch industry. Since then, many brands have released thinner versions of existing models each year or developed entirely new watches with slimmer movements, creating room for beautiful complications such as micro-rotors. This marks a major shift compared to trends between 2000 and 2014. Although big names such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe have largely driven technological progress in ultra-thin watches, they are currently somewhat less strong from an investment perspective. This may, of course, relate to the current economic situation. Brands that dramatically change their collections every year may fall behind those that maintain a more consistent, timeless line. Cartier, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), Audemars Piguet (AP), and Patek Philippe are leading examples.
5. Choose a reliable brand
Several factors contribute to a watch’s value, and reliability is one of the most important. But reliability is not just about the durability of the watch itself, it also concerns the brand behind it: does it have the right facilities, parts availability, and customer service to maintain your watch properly and safely over the long term? A well-maintained watch also comes with a documented service history, which is a major asset for future buyers. In short: a reliable watch from a reliable brand helps maintain or even increase its value. Brands such as Omega and Rolex are excellent examples in this regard.
6. Yes, colors matter
When choosing a watch for yourself, you’ll eventually find the right model, but then wonder which variant or reference suits you best. As mentioned earlier: choose something that appeals to you, but keep rarity in mind. Rare color variations of otherwise common models are a good starting point. Do you really love that blue Omega Seamaster? Then what about green?
7. Keep an eye on microbrands
As some high-end brands become increasingly exclusive and expensive, watch enthusiasts, still eager for what those brands offer, are shifting their attention to microbrands. These smaller brands often collaborate with watch media platforms and release rare limited editions that are highly popular among collectors. The Unimatic Modello Uno U1-H Limited Edition for Hodinkee is a great example.
8. Watch Asia, especially Japan
Japan is often seen as the market with the rarest models in the best condition; collectors frequently travel there specifically to hunt for rare investment pieces such as the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project. The broader Asian market shows a similar profile: strong purchasing power combined with deep appreciation for craftsmanship and exclusivity, which further drives demand for special pieces. The region is also home to numerous fast-growing, innovative microbrands gaining increasing international attention.
9. Rolex: the hype continues
Rolex remains a dominant player in the investment market. Not only because of its strong brand value and consistent demand, but also due to its high liquidity. Rolex watches are generally very easy and quick to resell at market value. Even when the market temporarily cools, demand remains high and buyers are easy to find. This makes Rolex a safe and stable choice for many investors. Models such as the Rolex Submariner and Rolex Daytona remain among the best watches to invest in.
10. Invest in a story, not just specifications
What has defined the most iconic and collectible watches over the past century are their innovations and achievements, from the watch that could dive the deepest underwater, such as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, to the watch that withstood, and functioned in space, such as the Omega Speedmaster. Technological advancement once determined which watches became the most sought-after collector’s pieces, because they were the first to achieve something remarkable. But we’ve come a long way, and watches have been continuously refined for decades; people are no longer as focused purely on technical performance. Today, appealing colors, interesting materials, origin stories, and collaborations with artists are among the factors attracting the younger generation. It’s wise to keep this in mind when investing in watches.
