For 20 years, Dutchess has defined sustainable Dutch fashion with high-quality fabrics, timeless design, and laidback luxury. Founded by Gwen van den Assem, this Rotterdam-based designer brand offers exclusive collections and modern tailoring for women who value style, craftsmanship, and investment pieces.
From Experimental Designer to Laidback Luxury
Gwen van den Assem, the designer and owner of the brand, was born with a strong dose of creativity. Creating and designing has been in her blood since childhood. The decision to study Fashion Design at the Art Academy (St. Joost in Breda) was made quickly and completed successfully. In the first years after graduating, she worked as a stylist at various styling agencies and in the theater and dance world.
From her work in styling, the desire arose to create her own designs. A gallery owner friend offered her an opportunity that became the start of the Dutchess brand. She was allowed to exhibit six experimental designs in his gallery. From there, she took the step to further develop her designs into a wearable collection. She rented a clothing rack at Nieuwe Ontwerpers, which led to a spot at Modefabriek. She did not go unnoticed there either, resulting in multiple points of sale in the Netherlands and Belgium. Dutchess began to flourish.
Where in 2005 she was still working from a warehouse — living upstairs and with her studio downstairs — the brand had grown so much by 2012 that it deserved a place in Rotterdam’s creative hub, the Van Nelle Fabriek. What was once her dream — “I lived nearby and every time I cycled past, I thought, one day I want to have my studio here” — is still reality in 2025.
Still Using High-Quality Fabrics as a Source of Inspiration
Whereas Gwen mainly designed dresses 20 years ago, the brand is now better known for its trousers, tops, and pantsuits. “That actually happened organically. The spirit of the times played an important role in this. Women are more comfortable wearing trousers, and the demand for two-pieces (trousers with a top) increased.”
Over the years, the use of materials has become much more colorful, and the collection now occasionally features prints more often than before. At her core, Gwen has stayed true to herself throughout these 20 years. Her signature is still clearly visible and recognizable. “I see that my handwriting has only grown stronger. What has definitely changed, though, are the tasks around designing. By now, I have truly become an entrepreneur and I manage a team. Where I did everything myself 20 years ago, it’s now a real company, and I am more than just a designer.”
Her preference for high-quality and natural fabrics remains the inspiration for her designs. Throughout the year, she regularly visits trade fairs in Paris and Milan to get a feel for different fabrics. From the texture, material, color, or print, she starts puzzling with the fabric swatches. With this foundation, her creative talent, and her client in mind, she creates a design at her drawing table.
“Inspired by experimental designers such as Martin Margiela, menswear, finishing details, and the French classics, I look for a ‘clean style’ through experimentation. By using a specific fabric, a certain shape, unique stitching, or a stylized pattern, I give a twist to the classic design. That’s how the Laidback Luxury style emerges, allowing Dutchess to dress women in a stylish and powerful way.”
The use of high-quality fabrics and natural materials is not only a source of inspiration for Dutchess, but also a requirement. “For 20 years, I have consciously chosen to create sustainable collections. That’s why I enjoy working with small family businesses in Portugal, and most of the fabrics are sourced in Italy. My designs are truly investment pieces; both the design and the craftsmanship with which the collection is made every season ensure a long lifespan. That is the foundation for beautiful, high-quality clothing.”
Fashion Today
In addition to her own boutique and Dutchess retail points, Gwen has noticed that her brand is now being purchased more and more online. That would have been unthinkable 20 years ago. “The world of online shopping influences my inspiration. Fashion is less dictated now, because the world has become smaller and there are more choices. Anything goes, from mixing and matching to bold use of color. From new to classic. Within that, I still follow my own intuition and chart my own course, so I can let go of the traditional fashion image. Sometimes I follow the trends, and sometimes I don’t at all. The fact that I operate in a niche market also contributes to this, as it gives me more freedom. That way, it fits perfectly with the free-spirited fashion era we’re in now.”
Dutchess in The Next 20 Years
“That’s really too far ahead for me—I’d rather focus on the next 10 years. I want to continue building the brand. I’d like to expand the collection with knitwear and accessories, such as shoes and bags. More of my own stores is also on my wish list. But for now, I am above all grateful that over the past 20 years I’ve been able to do what truly makes me happy: designing for women who, like me, love beautiful clothing and quality.”
The collection is available through the webshop: shop.dutch-ess.com.
