Chanel just announced a strategic investment in the creative luxury watchmaker MB&F. This type of partnership is set to elevate Chanel’s haute horlogerie creations from its watchmaking manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of Swiss watchmaking, to an even higher level.
Written by Anja Van Der Borght
Each year, we eagerly awaited the creations of MB&F: one year, a spider-inspired piece reminiscent of Louise Bourgeois, with a spherical clock as its body; the next, a walking robot-like timepiece. These designs, admired across the watchmaking world, always sparked conversation. Founded in 2005, MB&F was the world’s first horological concept lab, an artistic and micro-engineering creative laboratory dedicated to designing and producing small series of radical watch concepts. Based in Geneva, the lab brings together expert watchmakers, artists, designers, and manufacturers to craft innovative, avant-garde timepieces. To this day, their acclaimed watches remain true to the vision of founder Maximilian Büsser: to create kinetic 3D art by deconstructing traditional watchmaking.
A Strategic Investment
Chanel’s recent partnership with MB&F, acquiring a 25% stake in the independent high-end watch brand, underscores the Parisian luxury house’s commitment to evolving and investing in the future of haute horlogerie craftsmanship, design, and creativity. It also highlights their intention to collaborate with luxury specialists, enhancing their expertise and developing unique ‘savoir-faire.’
Since Chanel began producing watches in 1987 and established a watchmaking studio at Place Vendôme in Paris, they have invested in several companies. In 1993, they acquired G&F Châtelain Manufacture, known for producing watch cases, straps, and various mechanical components in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. In 2011, Chanel invested in the watch brand Romain Gauthier, and in 2018, in the now-legendary F.P. Journe, creating an ecosystem of independent watchmakers and suppliers. In the new partnership with MB&F, founder Maximilian Büsser retains a majority share of 60%, while his partner Serge Kriknoff holds 15%. Maximilian remains responsible for creative direction and general management, while Serge Kriknoff oversees R&D and production.
“We are delighted to enter into a strategic partnership with MB&F, a house that shares Chanel’s values of independence, creativity, and excellence,” said Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewelry. “This announcement is part of our long-term strategy to preserve, develop, and invest in specialized know-how and expertise, reaffirming our position in high-end watchmaking.”
Chanel’s Pieces
The Chanel Watch Creation Studio, led by Arnaud Chastaingt, drew inspiration for this J12 watch from Gabrielle Chanel and her couture atelier on rue Cambon. The dial comes alive, capturing the essence of the bustling couture studio. With a press of the button on the watch case, an ingenious mechanism of 355 components animates a meticulously crafted scene of Mademoiselle Chanel, her scissors, and her dress form for a full twenty seconds, set against a backdrop of five precise layers.
The watch features the new Caliber 6, an in-house movement and Chanel’s first automaton mechanism, as its name suggests, the sixth movement designed and assembled by the Chanel Manufacture. This exclusive piece is limited to just one hundred units.
In 2016, Chanel introduced the Monsieur watch, featuring Caliber 1 with Instant Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute—the first movement designed, developed, and assembled entirely by Chanel. In 2021, the J12 Superleggera and the Monsieur merged into the Monsieur Superleggera Edition watch. Now, the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio presents an ultra-black reinterpretation of the Monsieur Superleggera Edition. To enhance its elegance, the sleek black design is accentuated with a touch of gold.
In 2018, the Boy·Friend watch, originally created in 2015, unveiled its first skeleton haute horlogerie movement: Caliber 3. It took three years to develop this movement, designed to be as beautiful from the back as it is from the front. Now, Chanel introduces two exceptional new creations with a pink theme: an X-Ray version and a beige gold version adorned with pink sapphires. Both editions are limited to 55 pieces.
In 2020, Chanel introduced the Caliber 3.1 to create the fully transparent J12 X-Ray, featuring a movement that appears to float inside the case. This year, the J12 X-Ray Pink Edition was enhanced with a bezel crafted from beige gold, set with 46 baguette-cut pink sapphires.
In 2022, Chanel unveiled the J12 Diamond Tourbillon watch, featuring Caliber 5, the first in-house Flying Tourbillon movement. Now, Chanel presents a new interpretation of the J12 Diamond Tourbillon in matte black and white ceramic. Equally captivating from both the front and the back, the visible movement is adorned with a lion’s head, a signature emblem of Chanel Haute Horlogerie Manufacture. At the center of the flying tourbillon cage, a solitaire diamond—Coco Chanel’s favorite gemstone—has been set. Expertly cut to enhance its brilliance, the diamond rotates with the passing seconds, creating a mesmerizing effect.
