In recent months, Cartier organized the 27th edition of the prestigious Prix Cartier Talents Horlogers de Demain. This year, the French luxury house challenged participants to reinterpret the mechanism of the pendulum, an iconic Cartier creation, in an innovative way around the theme La Magie des Sens. Marta Maziers, a student at IATA in Namur, shone by winning first prize in the Apprentis category.
Text by Anja Van Der Borght
Deep admiration—that’s what we felt for the inventive artworks of the young talents during the award ceremony at the Musée International d’Horlogerie in La-Chaux-de-Fonds. Hugo Mandrillon, a student at Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau (France), won first prize in the Techniciens category with his creation Œil du temps. This innovative design, a binocular inspired by the sixth sense, impressively plays with optical effects. However, we were especially proud of our fellow Belgian Marta Maziers (19) and her award-winning project, La reine du temps, a horological artwork that highlights the fascinating universe of bees and stimulates the senses.
How did you decide to pursue watchmaking in an era where young people usually check the time on their smartphones?
MM: “After finishing high school, I wanted to study something hands-on. I come from Lavacherie, a small village in the Ardennes, and knew little about the watch industry. Initially, I was drawn to jewelry-making. During a day in a jewelry workshop in Bastogne, where I observed how rings were made, the owner, Jean Windeshausen, suggested I spend a day in his watchmaking workshop as well. I was immediately captivated by the technical and mechanical aspects of horology. It’s not just practical work; you must also think analytically to identify and solve problems. This combination of practice and theory really appealed to me. Eventually, I decided to study watchmaking at IATA in Namur. It wasn’t a childhood dream, and no one in my family had any connection to the industry—it was something entirely new for me.”
How did your surroundings react when you said you wanted to become a watchmaker?
MM: “In high school, I followed a highly theoretical curriculum with a strong focus on math and sciences. I was a good student, and people expected me to become an engineer. When I said I wanted to be a watchmaker, some wondered if it was ‘beneath my level’ or if I would get bored. Unfortunately, there are still prejudices about vocational training. But I was sure this was the right choice for me. Later, when my former teachers saw my progress, they were proud. It proves that vocational studies are not for the less intelligent and that you can use your intellectual abilities just as much.”
How did you come across the Prix Cartier Talents Horlogers de Demain?
MM: “During the summer, while I was in England improving my English, my teacher called me about the competition. He asked if I was interested in participating. I was immediately excited, but the process was fast—I had to submit a project with a design, an accompanying text, and a video. But it was already July, and I had to submit everything by the end of August. I had many ideas across different domains, but since my father has been a beekeeper for several years alongside his job, I ultimately chose ‘bees’ as my theme. I developed my project within a short time and sent in my application. Then, I had to wait anxiously for Cartier’s response.”
How was it to work on such a time-sensitive project?
MM: “The time constraint was a challenge. We had 80 hours to complete everything. I worked on it after school and occasionally during practical lessons in the workshop. It was intense, but it taught me a lot about planning and efficiency.”
You chose to enamel the clock’s dial. How was it working with enamel? Did it spark your interest in artistic crafts?
MM: “I hardly knew about enameling, but through school, I came into contact with Michèle Baumont, an experienced enameller in Namur who also works for a major Swiss house. I reached out to her, and she kindly welcomed me into her workshop, where she taught me the basics of enameling: applying powder, firing in the oven, and painting on glass. It was fascinating but also incredibly complex. She helped me with my project, which was a huge added value. It certainly strengthened my interest in artistic crafts, but I also want to continue combining the technical and mechanical aspects of horology with artistry.”
What do you think is the most successful element of your project?
MM: “The overall picture. Every detail—the enameled dial, the beehive, the moving bee—contributes to the magic of the piece. It’s more than just a timepiece; it’s an artwork.”
How was the beehive made?
MM: “The beehive was 3D-printed. This was mainly a practical choice because of time constraints. Other methods, like casting in brass, would have taken too much time and money. The bees were handmade by a jeweler in brass and then lacquered to protect them from aging. The case is also brass, and the base is walnut wood from the Dordogne.”
How does the bee move in your design?
MM: “The bee sits on a sliding ring that moves along an axis. This allows it to move freely without getting stuck, creating a smooth dynamic.”
What do you associate with Cartier?
MM: “Cartier immediately makes me think of the color red and their iconic Trinity ring. For me, Cartier symbolizes luxury—not just because of their products. During my visit to the Maison des Métiers d’Art, I discovered that luxury also lies in the way people are received and supported. And in that aspect, Cartier truly goes the extra mile. Everything is meticulously arranged, allowing you to fully focus on your work. That is true luxury.”
How did it feel to represent Belgium in such a prestigious competition?
MM: “I left without expectations and was already happy just to participate. The idea of representing Belgium was special, especially since I was the very first and only Belgian participant. I wanted to represent my country in a worthy way, and I’m proud to have won the prize. It shows that Belgian watchmakers can be just as talented as Swiss ones. I hope this enhances the credibility of Belgian watchmakers.”
What has the award already brought you?
MM: “The prize offers many opportunities, such as a six-week internship at Cartier—three weeks at the Maison des Métiers d’Art and three weeks at the manufacture. I look forward to learning more and developing my skills further. Additionally, my work will be exhibited in various places, including the Musée International d’Horlogerie in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, and we each received a different Cartier watch.”
How do you see your future as a watchmaker?
MM: “Right now, I don’t have a concrete career plan or big dream. My focus is on finishing my studies—I’m only in my second year of a three-year program. What comes next will depend on the opportunities: maybe an internship, additional training, or even a different direction within horology. I’ll see where my path leads.”
www.prixcartiertalentshorlogersdedemain.com
Karim Drici, Industrial Director Cartier
Did Cartier introduce the Prix Cartier Talents Horlogers de Demain out of concern that certain watchmaking crafts would disappear?
KD: “The key point is that thanks to our relationships with schools—particularly public schools and initial training centers for watchmaking—we are able to establish a solid foundation. Within our internal training institutes, such as our watchmaking production site in Couvet, we train 30 to 50 students each year, preparing them for the profession. We have a similar training institute for jewelry-making in Paris, where we follow the same approach. I don’t believe the question revolves around the fear of crafts disappearing, but rather how we can build sustainable relationships with schools and their ecosystems, and fulfill our long-term commitments to ensure these crafts endure. Today, it’s about continuity—training watchmakers, micro-mechanics specialists, and more on a daily basis.”
How does the competition impact careers at Cartier?
KD: “Since the competition was founded in 1995, more than two thousand candidates have participated. Among them, some have undoubtedly built careers within Cartier’s workshops or the broader Richemont group. However, we do not track exact figures because that is not the core purpose of the competition. It’s about encouraging and showcasing the technical and creative talent of young people. As Cartier aptly puts it: ‘They have gold in their hands and are true geniuses.’ This message is at the heart of the competition and gives it its unique value.”
Belgium was included in this prestigious competition for the first time, and with success! But why did Cartier suddenly focus on Belgium?
KD: “We realized that Belgium has watchmaking schools of a very high level, both technically and creatively. Moreover, we see that training programs there continue to evolve. We are not interested in working with every watchmaking school in the world, but rather in gradually establishing collaborations with select schools. This year, we included Belgium. Previously, we mainly focused on students in their third and fourth years of an initial watchmaking training program. Now, we have also integrated technicians and specialized schools in micro-mechanics. This enriches the competition in terms of both training and the range of participating countries and schools. We intend to continue this approach.”
What happens to the young talents’ creations after the ceremony?
KD: “Cartier ensures that all creations are exhibited for a year at the Musée International d’Horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Additionally, some designs are presented at prestigious events such as Watches & Wonders in Geneva this coming April. Certain pieces are also showcased in Cartier boutiques worldwide on special occasions. This gives the works extensive exposure—within the Cartier ecosystem for employees, within the professional watchmaking industry at events like Watches & Wonders, and to the general public in museums such as the Musée International d’Horlogerie. This approach highlights the creations in a holistic way and offers them a unique platform. Afterward, the creations are returned to the young talents. After all, they are their designs, and they keep them as lasting mementos of their achievement.”
Do students have any obligations after winning their prize?
KD: “None at all. But they do receive opportunities. They have the chance to stay in touch with us, either directly or indirectly. They can visit the Cartier watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, as well as the Cartier private collection in Geneva, accompanied by Pascale Lepeu, Director of the Cartier Collection. They can also visit the Maison des Métiers d’Art in La Chaux-de-Fonds and meet the talents of this unique house. Furthermore, we offer them the opportunity to visit the Institut de Joaillerie Cartier on Rue Saint-Georges in Paris, as well as our iconic boutique at 13, Rue de la Paix in Paris. In short, we invite them on an initiation journey into the world of Cartier. It’s a chance to further inspire them to participate in the creativity behind our high-end products.”
About the award
The Prix Cartier Talents Horlogers de Demain was founded in 1995 at the initiative of the Institut Horlogerie Cartier. This unique award invites young watchmaking talents each year to transform a movement based on a specific theme, rewarding both technical and creative virtuosity. Initially, the prize was open to third- and fourth-year students in an initial vocational watchmaking training program. Since 2024, the competition has expanded to include a new category of candidates: ‘technicians in microtechnology’, students in their first or second year of an advanced vocational training program. After the award ceremony, three winners per category are selected. Applications for the 2025 edition will open this fall.
Photo captions:
During the prestigious Prix Cartier Talents Horlogers de Demain competition, six laureates were honored across two categories: Apprentis and Techniciens. Marta Maziers, a student at IATA in Namur, Belgium, won first prize in the Apprentis category with her project La reine du temps. This horological masterpiece highlights the world of bees and stimulates all the senses.
